Showing posts with label Şarj. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Şarj. Show all posts

Sunday, 15 March 2020

Arduino battery capacity tester

My first Arduino project was to build a battery capacity tester. I’ve got a box of rechargeable AA batteries, and it seams they’ve been less and less effective. Since most applications require 4 batteries, invariably one problem battery makes the rest of them look bad.

The Atmel ATMega328 microcontroller has 6 analog inputs with 10-bit A-to-D converters and a external AREF that allows you to define what voltage 0x3FF represents. In other words, it’ll give you ~1.4mV precision measuring 0-1.5V when given a 1.5V analog reference. Plenty accurate for a battery capacity measurement.

The principle is fairly simple. Apply a known load to a battery, record the voltage periodically while the battery discharges, stop recording at some point, and integrate to arrive at the area under the curve in order to derive the amp-hours delivered from the battery.

Enough theory, let’s see how it works. The UI starts with a helpful message:

Insert Battery

Monday, 9 March 2020

OTOMATİK AKÜ ŞARJ DEVRESİ 1- 12V SEA-LEAD ACİD

Geçenlerde akü şarj devresi lazım oldu. Biraz araştırma sonunda birkaç tane akü şarj devresi buldum. Başkalarının da faydalanması için burada paylaşıyorum. Öncelikle belirteyim ki, bu konuda paylaştığım tüm devrelerin çalıştığı teyit edilmiştir.
Konunun sonunda aküler hakkında çok ayrıntılı bilgiler var.  Akülerin şarj edilmesi hakkında gereken bilgiye sahip değilseniz,  önce o dökümanı incelemenizi öneririm.

Sunday, 8 March 2020

Low-Voltage Cutout For 12V SLA Batteries































This simple circuit protects an SLA battery from over-discharge by disconnecting the load when the terminal voltage drops below a preset level. In operation, a sample of the battery voltage is derived from the 22kΩ resistor and 20kΩ trimpot divider. This is applied to the non-inverting input (pin 3) of IC1, where it is compared with a reference voltage on the inverting input (pin 2). When the sampled battery voltage falls below the reference voltage, IC1’s output (pin 1) swings towards ground, switching Mosfet Q2 off and disconnecting the load from the battery. The reference voltage is derived from a 4.7V zener diode (ZD1), which is connected to ground via the collector-emitter circuit of Q1 (ie, when Q1 is on).

Low Voltage Cutout For 12V SLA Batteries.jpg
However, when the op amp’s output is driven low, Q1 is switched off, causing the non-inverting input to rise towards the full battery voltage. This greatly reinforces the switching action, latching the circuit in the "off" state until the battery is recharged and the reset switch (S1) pressed. The Mosfet used for Q2 should be selected to suit the intended application. The circuit could also drive a relay simply by connecting the coil across the "load" terminals. As is usual practice, a diode should be connected across the relay coil to limit back-EMF spikes.


12 Volt Battery Monitor Circuit With LM3914


In our article Make a Simple Battery Status Monitor we showed how a few components could be put together to make a very basic battery voltage monitor to give a visual indication of the charge state of a 12V lead acid battery.

LM3914 dot/bar display driver - to be used for a battery voltage monitor
Here we will show you how to make a more advanced battery monitor using 10 LEDs (or an LED bargraph display) and the LM3914 dot/bar display driver (pictured above) to show the battery voltage very accurately.

Thursday, 14 February 2019

150W Boost Converter Schematic

In a recent project, I needed a boost converter to step up 5V to about 8V at a few amps.
 A few different Chinese-made boost converter modules are available from various sources:
I’ve seen them on eBay and Amazon. One very common one is known as the ‘150W Boost
Converter’. I believe it’s intended for charging laptops from car batteries. It’s specified to
take an input of 10-32V and output 12-35V, which isn’t quite what I was looking for, but
the price was right so I thought I’d take a chance. This is what I found.








I had a good look at the circuit board. It’s based on the UC3843 chip, which is a pretty old device
(I think it dates back to 1984) and is often found in PC power supplies. However, its age and
ubiquity means that documentation on it is readily available. I traced out the circuit, so here’s
the schematic diagram:








You can also have it as a PDF file: 150W_ boost.
It’s a pretty straightforward boost converter topology with a MOSFET switching transistor and
a variable resistor in the feedback loop to set the output voltage. There is no over-current,
 over-voltage or reverse polarity protection at all, and the chip isn’t designed for low power
 consumption so this module wouldn’t be suitable where very low standby power is a
requirement. There are a couple of interesting features, though.
The circuit includes an arrangement with an NPN transistor which feeds some bias to the
 current sense feedback loop. According to the UC3843 datasheet, this improves the
 stability of the converter at duty cycles higher than 50%.
The control supply for the UC3843 is derived from a 9V regulator, so it’s independent
of the input or output voltage. This is convenient.
The UC3843 is designed to operate from fairly high supply voltages, and won’t start up until
its supply voltage reaches 8.4V. That was a bit of a problem for my application, where the
input voltage was only 5V. However, there’s nothing to say that the chip power supply has to be
 the same as the power input. In fact, the module already has a handy 9V regulator which
feeds the control chip. Looking at the circuit diagram, there are even a pair of resistors
 (I’ve labelled them R1 and R2) which select whether that regulator is fed from the input or the
 output. As supplied, R2 was fitted, so the control chip was fed from the output. Here’s a closeup
of the relevant part of the board showing R1 and R2.




















My application happened to have a low-current 12V supply available, which would be
 perfect for powering the UC3843. I simply removed R2 and connected my 12V supply to
the point where the black arrow is in the photograph. The boost converter now worked
perfectly with a 5V input.
I also had to modify it a little to be able to reduce the output voltage below about 11V. R3,
 labelled in the photo, is part of the feedback network. I simply removed it and replaced it
 with a piece of wire. Now the output voltage was variable down to 5V, and I was able to
set it to the 8V I wanted.
The module seemed very comfortable delivering 3.3A at around 8V, and drew about 5A from
the the 5V input. The heatsinks only got slightly warm.
Unfortunately, the power supply I wanted to run the converter and its load from didn’t like starting
 up with it all connected. This is quite often a problem with boost converters, since the inrush
current at startup can be very large as the controller tries to bring the output up to voltage
as quickly as possible. I solved this by adding a soft-start circuit to the module. More on that later

Wednesday, 18 July 2018

Arduino kullanarak Güneş Paneli Akü Şarj Kontrolörü & Solar Panel Battery Charge Controller Using Arduino

ACS712'nin çıkış gerilimi, hiçbir giriş ile birlikte 2.5V'dir, spesifikasyon ise 66 ila 185 mV / A çıkış duyarlılığını belirtir. Bu geniş bir aralıkta ve Arduino'nun 10-bit ADC'sindeki hatalar göz önüne alındığında, bu yaklaşık akım çıkışı veriyor. Çoğu uygulama için yeterince iyi.